Tortola and Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands
A Snorkeling Trip Report by Richard W. Slatta
Snorkeling in the British Virgin Islands: Tortola and Virgin Gorda
On March 10th, 2001, Maxine, JD, and Rich settled comfortably into Belmont Grove Villa Number Five. Located on the northwest end of Tortola, we looked out over the north shore of Tortola, British Virgin Islands (BVI). We shared the lovely villa with Satish and Nick Gupta and Sharon Edwards.
So where are we? The Virgin Islands (both US and British) lie some 40 miles east of Puerto Rico. The islands are the westernmost part of the Lesser Antilles (also, thanks to Columbus's ignorance of where he was, called the West Indies). Fly northwest 1,100 miles to reach Miami. Columbus bumped into these small islands in 1493 on his second voyage across the Atlantic. To commemorate St. Ursula and her 11,000 maidens., he named the cluster "the Virgin Islands." The colorful name of "Virgin Gorda," ("fat virgin") also came from the Spaniards, supposedly because the island's profile resembles a buxom woman lying on her back. Spain did not populate nor settle these rocky, rugged chunks, so part of the islands fell to the British in 1672. Of the 60 or so islands of the BVI, the largest are Anegada, Jost van Dyke, Tortola, and Virgin Gorda islands. (We visited the last three.) Road Town on Tortola (with fewer than 7,000 people), is the capital.
In traveling to and in the BVI, getting there was not half the fun. We had to lay over a night in Miami, at the luxurious Holiday Inn Express, and get up at 4AM to continue to the BVI. We arrived at the airport on Beef Island via San Juan, Puerto Rico. We then hopped into our Geo Tracker and drove the full length of the island east to west--about 12 miles. Some 100 speed bumps and many hairpin turns later, we arrived at the villa. Tortola has very little flat space, so one is zipping up, down, and around hills much of the time. Honk often! "Island Time" offers a welcome leisurely pace, except on the roads! Locals seem as hurried on the road as they are laid back at other times. Chill! Oh, you drive on the left in good British fashion, however, the official currency is the US dollar!
We enjoyed gazing from the deck out onto Long Beach, framed by palm trees, bouganvilla, Spanish dagger, sprays of flowers, and other tropical delights. The island of Jost Van Dyke (named for the Dutch pirate) dominated the horizon to the north. On Sunday, we joined John and Sandra on "The Aristocat," a smooth-sailing catamaran, for an all-day sail. JD got to take the helm, under the watchful eye of Captain John. Our snorkeling sites off Jost Van Dyke were very poor-- too strong a current at one site and very murky water at the other. Not recommended! Don't leave it up to a sailing captain to choose sites-- they like being ON the water, not in it!
Folks on Tortola know how to eat and drink! Food is several cuts above many of the other Caribbean islands: delicious lobster, steaks, mahi mahi and other fish. Happily, most evidence of British cuisine has disappeared, except for tasty fish and chips, and an odd fondness for mashed potatoes.
A 20-minute walk down the hill brought us to "Smuggler's Cove," aka Belmont Bay. A nicely protected sand beach and a small, shallow reef made this a good spot for beginning snorkelers. We saw a good range of fish, including a squid and a meandering school of blue tang. Coral formations tended to be bland and spotty, with large patches of fire coral that kept us alert in the shallow water.
OK, let's cut to the chase. As far as we're concerned, THE reason to visit BVI is The Baths on Virgin Gorda. Hop a ferry in Road Town, Tortola, and a half hour later across Sir Francis Drake Channel you're on Virgin Gorda. A short taxi ride, a 350 yard stroll, and there it is: one of the most amazing, entrancing sites of the Caribbean. The island's desert-like landscape, strewn with huge boulders, is other-wordly--like a "StarTrek" set. An old copper mine and several beaches and resorts attract some visitors. However, we spent our precious time only at The Baths. Rich hypothesizes that this fantastic landscape is actually the remains of the lost Continent of Atlantis. He wants to spend several months at The Baths researching his theory, but so far no funding agency has provided the needed support.
On our first visit to The Baths, we entered the water and veered around the rocks to the left. We kept a watchful eye out for speeding dinghies, bringing visitors in from anchored sailing vessels. The gigantic rocks provide a base for a good variety of fascinating coral formations and lots of fish.
Sizeable parrot fish chomp away at the coral with audible crunching. The crystal-clear water reaches depths of 20-30 feet as one moves away from the shoreline. You can also explore some caves.
On our second visit, we explored the rocks and corals to the right, going as far as Spring Bay. We found more fish and more varied coral on this side. Maxine spotted a pair of squid that we observed for many minutes. Despite the great popularity of The Baths, we snorkeled in solitude most of the time. Occasionally, a school of tourists zoomed by, but, by and large, we had the place to ourselves. Most people simply lounge on the beach or splash around in the cove.
Large schools of blue tang and yellow/grey striped grunts swam from place to place. We also spotted Maxine's favorite--the oddly shaped trunk fish. A wide, almost square head tapers to a small tail in this spotted, triangle-shaped fish. This specimen exceeded a foot in length.
After our several hours of snorkeling, we enjoyed lunch al fresco at a restaurant just above the pathway down to The Baths. One looks out over a profusion of giant boulders, desert foliage, and the amazingly blue Caribbean. Tortola lies north and a little west and other islands are visible as well. Both Speedy's and Smith's offer low-cost ferries from Road Town to Virgin Gorda.
Downside of BVI:
Difficult connections. Make your travel plans well in advance--like a year! The Beef Island airport is expanding, which may help. You can also fly into the US Virgin Islands and ferry over to the BVI.
Mosquitos! Bring repellent and apply it at night. We almost made it through the week unscathed but suffered lots of bites in bed on our last night.
Something of a cash economy. Some vendors don't accept plastic and don't seem to want traveler's checks.
Driving is a chore. The narrow, winding roads and wild local drivers require great vigilance! You'll also come suddenly upon herds of goats or wandering cattle. Every "urban" area has high speed bumps spaced every hundred yards or so. These, of course, create traffic bottlenecks. Fortunately, the island is small, so one never has to drive any considerable distance.
Many snorkeling sites adjoin sandy beaches. Winds kick up the waves and sand making for poor conditions. For example, we make the 1/2 hour drive to Brewer's Bay only to find visibility at zero.
Encroaching development: Cruise ships now visit Road Town and some anchor off of Virgin Gorda. The quiet, quaint character of the BVI may erode over time as merchants chase dollars and sacrifice quality of life. Speaking of merchants, you'll not find much to buy. Ferry over to Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands, if you're a shop-till-you-drop type.
Pick your outings carefully. As elsewhere in the Caribbean, many sailing ship captains know nothing about snorkeling. They take you to inappropriate spots where frustration not fulfillment rules.
Wait people and retail clerks (mostly women) can be a bit stand-offish and unsmiling. Don't let it get to you. Be pleasant, and they'll slowly come around -- and maybe even smile.
Upside of BVI
The Baths and Virgin Gorda: Simply one of the finest spots on earth. Amazing to walk among the boulders; more amazing to snorkel among them. Worth the trip all by itself.
Extraordinary, rugged natural beauty on Tortola. Very scenic beaches on the north shore; impressive vistas from the ridge road that rises 1000 feet above sea level. You can climb Tortola's highest peak, Mt. Sage, 1,780 feet high.
Wonderful beaches.
Good food, although fairly expensive. Local cuisine includes vegetables that are definitely an acquired taste, but fish, chicken, and beef are all well prepared and tasty. Surprisingly good, fresh salads!
Laid back, for the most part. You can really unwind!
Other snorkeling sites that we did not visit this trip: Wreck of the Rhone; caves at Norman Island. Recommended!